Air Conditioning

This is an area where the answer now is already starting to be a lot different from the answers a few years ago, and where the conventional wisdom may not really be true anymore.

A few years ago, solar and batteries were crazy expensive per watt and watt/hour, and the only air conditioners that were available used massive amounts of power - it really wasn't at all feasible to have an off-grid camper that would have an air conditioning system. The standard advice was: if you need AC, you need shore power or a generator. Period.

However, things have changed pretty dramatically on two fronts. First, solar panels and lithium batteries have gotten way, way cheaper - you can now build a 400Ah battery bank with 800+ watts of solar for what a 200Ah system would have cost five years ago. Second, and maybe more importantly, DC-powered mini split air conditioners have recently hit the market at surprisingly affordable prices - you can get one for around $300-400.

Traditional AC options vs. DC mini splits

Traditional roof-mounted AC units (Dometic, Coleman, etc.)

These are the air conditioners you see on the roof of pretty much every RV. They're all-in-one units - everything is contained in the box on your roof, and they blow cold air down into your space.

Key Specs

  • • AC powered (120V) - requires inverter
  • • High power draw: 1200-1500W running
  • • Need large inverter (3000W+) for startup surge
  • • 10-15% inverter losses (DC to AC conversion)
  • • All-in-one design, simple but less efficient
  • • Well-established brands with good support

The Math Problem

1400W AC unit → ~1600W from batteries (with inverter losses)

= 133 amps/hour at 12V

On a 400Ah battery: ~1.5 hours runtime to 50% depth (3 hours to full discharge)

Even with 800W solar perfectly positioned, you're probably not breaking even.

DC-powered mini split systems

These are the new kids on the block, and they work quite differently. A mini split system has two parts: an outdoor compressor/condenser unit (the part that gets hot) and an indoor air handler (the part that blows cold air). They're connected by refrigerant lines that you run through a small hole in your wall.

Key Specs

  • • DC powered (12V or 24V) - no inverter needed
  • • Lower power: 400-700W while running
  • • No inverter losses (runs directly off battery)
  • • More efficient (hot part is outside)
  • • Requires mounting both units + refrigerant lines
  • • Mostly Chinese brands, variable quality
  • • Takes up less interior ceiling space

The Better Math

500W DC unit = 40-45 amps/hour at 12V

On a 400Ah battery: ~4-5 hours runtime to 50% depth (8-9 hours to full discharge)

With 800W solar in peak sun: generating 600W+ → nearly covers AC draw!

What about portable units? (Zero Breeze, EcoFlow Wave)

You've probably seen ads for portable AC units like the Zero Breeze Mark 2 or the EcoFlow Wave 2. The pitch is appealing: no installation, no drilling holes, just set it up and go. But there's a reason this guide focuses on mini splits.

Zero Breeze Mark 2
2,300 BTU
~$1,200-1,500
EcoFlow Wave 2
5,100 BTU
~$1,000-1,200
DC Mini Split
10,000-12,000 BTU
$300-400

The core problem: they're self-contained

Portable units have the same fundamental issue as traditional roof-mounted AC: the compressor sits inside your space. The compressor generates heat while trying to cool — so the unit is fighting itself. They vent hot air out through a window or hose, but it's inherently less efficient than a mini split where the hot part is completely outside the van. In a small van interior, this matters a lot.

In practice

The Zero Breeze at 2,300 BTU is simply not enough to meaningfully cool a van in real heat. It might take the edge off — dropping the interior a few degrees — but on a 95°F day, you're not going to feel "cooled." The EcoFlow Wave 2 at 5,100 BTU fares better, but you're still getting the low end of mini split performance at a similar price, with worse efficiency because of the self-contained design.

Both units also still draw significant power. The EcoFlow Wave 2 pulls 400-700W — comparable to a DC mini split, but with less cooling output per watt. You can buy EcoFlow's add-on battery so it doesn't tap your van's system, but that's another $500-700 and 17 lbs for a battery that only powers the AC for a few hours.

When portables do make sense

  • You rent or borrow your van and can't make permanent modifications
  • You want to take it with you when you sell — it's not attached to the vehicle
  • You only need occasional relief, not sustained cooling — taking a nap in a slightly less hot van, not working all afternoon
  • You're testing whether you even need AC before committing to a mini split install

If any of those describe you, a portable could be a reasonable choice. But if you're building out a van and know you want AC, a DC mini split will cool better, more efficiently, for a similar price — it just requires installation.

What "mini split" actually means

The term "mini split" refers to the system being split into two units - hence "split." The compressor (the power-hungry, heat-generating part) sits outside, and the air handler (the part that blows cold air) sits inside.

Why This Is More Efficient

  • ✓ Compressor heat isn't inside fighting your cooling
  • ✓ Outdoor unit breathes better, rejects heat more efficiently
  • ✓ Position indoor unit wherever makes sense for airflow
  • ✓ Takes up less interior space

The "Mini" Part

"Mini" just means it's a small system designed for a single room/zone, as opposed to a whole-house system. Perfect for a van!

Is off-grid AC actually feasible now?

The honest answer: it depends, but it's way more feasible than it used to be.

If you have a large solar array, a beefy alternator charging setup, frequent access to shore power, or some combination of those — then yes, running a DC mini split off-grid is realistic. The key is having enough consistent power input to keep up with the draw. AC is one of the most power-hungry things you can run in a van, so your electrical system needs to be built with it in mind from the start.

But let's be clear about what "work" means:

  • ✗ You're not going to run it 24/7 like at home
  • ✓ You'll mostly run it during hottest part of day (when solar is also producing)
  • ✓ You might turn it off overnight, rely on ventilation
  • ✗ Cloudy days = be conservative or use generator/shore power backup
  • ✓ AC will make it bearable, not necessarily "comfortable by home standards"

✓ Where This Shines

Somewhere hot during the day but cool at night

Run AC during peak heat (when solar is also peaking), then turn it off at night and use your roof fan. This is actually pretty sustainable with a good solar setup.

✗ Where It Struggles

Somewhere that's hot 24/7 (like desert summer)

You'll need a really big battery bank, or you'll need to supplement with shore power or a generator.

Installation considerations for DC mini splits

These are a bit more involved to install than traditional roof AC units:

1

Mount the outdoor unit

Usually on the back doors or exterior wall

2

Mount the indoor unit

Usually on a wall or ceiling

3

Drill hole for refrigerant lines

Through your wall - needs proper sealing

4

Charge with refrigerant (if needed)

Some units come pre-charged, others need professional charging

5

Wire to 12V system

Electrical wiring is straightforward since it's DC

The installation isn't rocket science, but it's definitely more complex than just cutting a hole in your roof and bolting down a traditional AC unit.

My take

For occasional campers:

I wouldn't prioritize AC in the budget. A good roof fan (Maxxfan), proper airflow, and strategic camping (seeking shade, higher elevations, cooler seasons) will get you pretty far. AC is expensive, uses a lot of power even with the DC units, and adds complexity.

However...

If you're going to be in genuinely hot conditions regularly, or if you have health issues that require AC, or if you just really value being cool - the new DC mini splits have changed the game enough that it's worth considering.

It's no longer a "you must have shore power" situation.

If you do go this route:

  • • Budget for a serious electrical system
  • • Be realistic about your usage

You're not going to match home AC performance on battery power alone, but you can make a hot van bearable, which is a pretty big upgrade.

One more thing: These DC mini splits are still relatively new to the van world, so there isn't as much long-term data on reliability. You're taking a bit more risk than with established brands like Dometic. But at $300-400, even if you only get a couple seasons out of it, that's not the end of the world.