An inverter converts your 12V DC battery power into 120V AC power - the same power that comes out of wall outlets in your house. This lets you use normal laptops, phone chargers, kitchen appliances, and pretty much anything else you'd plug into the wall.
If you're building a van with any kind of electrical system, you need an inverter. The question is: what size, and which brand?
Get a 3000W pure sine wave inverter from Vevor or a similar budget brand. Yes, 3000W, even if you think you only need 1000W.
Let me explain why.
Link to our favorite inverter →Inverters are rated by their continuous output (what they can deliver constantly) and their surge/peak rating (what they can handle for a few seconds when something starts up).
The surge rating matters because many devices draw much more power for a second or two when they start up. A blender might run at 800W but needs 1500W to start. An induction cooktop might run at 1200W but surge to 2000W when you first turn it on.
A 3000W inverter typically has a 6000W surge rating, which means it can handle pretty much anything you throw at it.
Here's the thing that surprises people: the price difference between inverter sizes is minimal.
You're talking about $50-100 more to get 50% more power. That's a rounding error in a van build budget.
But the capability difference is huge:
The 3000W inverter gives you flexibility. You're not constantly doing mental math about whether you can turn on the blender while your laptop is charging. You're not limited to cooking on low power. You can run whatever you need without stress.
This is where the extra power really matters. As we discussed in the cooking section, induction cooktops are now the best option for most van builds - no propane to deal with, very efficient, easy to use.
But here's the catch: induction cooktops are power-hungry.
A portable induction cooktop typically runs 1000-1500W when cooking at high heat. Plus they surge even higher when they first turn on - often 1800-2000W for a second or two.
You're right at the limit. It might work on medium power, but high power could overload it. The surge when you first turn it on might trip the inverter. You're babysitting it constantly.
Turn it on, cook at whatever power level you want, don't think about it. Boil water fast. Sear that steak. It just works.
Same thing with blenders, electric kettles, etc. These are convenience items that make van life way better, but they need real power. A 3000W inverter means you can actually use them.
This is non-negotiable: you need a pure sine wave inverter.
Modified sine wave inverters are cheaper but they:
Pure sine wave inverters produce clean power identical to what comes out of your wall at home. Everything runs properly, efficiently, and safely.
Every inverter recommendation in this guide assumes pure sine wave. Don't even look at modified sine wave inverters - they're not worth it.
This is another area where conventional wisdom is stuck in the past. Five years ago, you really did need to spend $800-1200 on a Victron or Magnum inverter to get something reliable. The cheap Chinese inverters were genuinely problematic.
That's changed. Budget brands like Vevor, Giandel, and others are now making inverters that work just fine for van builds, at a fraction of the cost of the premium brands.
(Victron, Magnum, Samlex)
(Vevor, Giandel, etc.)
The Vevor inverters are probably comparably reliable as Renogy (which is already a mid-tier brand, not premium), at a much lower cost.
Are they as good as a $1200 Victron? No. Will they work fine for most van builds? Yes.
Here's the thing: even if your Vevor inverter dies after 5 years, you can buy three of them for the cost of one Victron. And in 5-10 years, the technology will probably be even better and cheaper, so maybe you'll upgrade anyway.
For a DIY van build where you're trying to keep costs reasonable, spending ~$200 on a 3000W Vevor inverter makes way more sense than spending $1200 on a 3000W Victron.
Running an inverter does use some power, but it's not as bad as people think.
This is called parasitic draw. Over 24 hours, a 3000W inverter sitting idle uses about 360-720 Wh per day just being on.
That's not nothing, but it's also not terrible if you're running a fridge (400-600 Wh/day) and other devices anyway. And here's the key: you can turn the inverter off when you're not using it.
Many people wire their inverter with a remote on/off switch that they can reach from inside the van. Inverter off at night (just run 12V devices), inverter on during the day when you need AC power. This cuts the idle draw to almost nothing.
When you run a device through an inverter, you lose about 10-15% of the power to conversion losses. So if your laptop needs 50 watts, the inverter pulls about 55-60 watts from your battery.
This is why we recommend running DC devices (like 12V fridges and diesel heaters) directly off your battery when possible - no inverter losses. But for things that need AC power anyway (laptops, phone chargers, induction cooktop), the 10-15% loss is just the cost of doing business.
Mount your inverter somewhere accessible but out of the way. Common spots:
Keep it close to the battery (short wire runs are more efficient), but not so hidden that you can't reach it.
Inverters generate heat, especially under load. Don't seal them in a completely enclosed box. They need some airflow.
Some people mount computer fans to actively cool their inverter compartment. This is optional but can help if you're running high loads frequently.
3000W inverters pull 250+ amps from your 12V battery at full load. This requires very thick wire - typically 2/0 AWG or bigger (yes, really thick).
Short runs are critical. Keep the inverter within 3-4 feet of the battery if possible. The longer the run, the thicker the wire needs to be.
You need a massive fuse or circuit breaker on the positive cable from the battery to the inverter. For a 3000W inverter, probably 300A or more.
This is not optional. A short circuit in an unfused 2/0 cable can literally weld metal and start fires.
Many inverters come with or support a remote on/off switch. Wire this somewhere convenient (near your bed, by the door, etc.) so you can turn the inverter on and off without accessing the inverter itself.
This is really handy for managing that idle draw.
When shopping for an inverter, look for:
Keep it simple. You need an inverter that converts 12V to 120V safely and reliably. Everything else is gravy.
Some inverters are combined with battery chargers - these are called inverter/chargers or multiplus units (Victron makes a popular one).
One unit that can both invert DC to AC, and also charge your batteries from shore power or a generator. When you plug into shore power, it charges your batteries and also passes through power to your outlets. When unplugged, it inverts from battery.
Skip the inverter/charger and keep it simple. Get a separate 3000W inverter (~$200 from Vevor) and if you want shore power charging capability, add a separate battery charger ($150).
Total cost: ~$350 vs. $2000+ for an inverter/charger.
You can always add shore power charging later if you decide you want it.
To give you a sense of what 3000W actually means in practice:
This is the flexibility you get with 3000W - you don't have to think about it. You can run multiple things without doing mental math.
There is one scenario where a smaller inverter might make sense: if you're building an absolutely minimal system.
Maybe you're doing a bare-bones weekend warrior build with:
In this case, a 1000W inverter ($150) might be fine. You're not running an induction cooktop, you're not running a blender, you're just keeping devices charged.
But honestly? Even then, I'd probably still get the 2000W or 3000W inverter for $100-200 more. Because in six months you might want to add a blender. Or in a year you might want to try induction cooking. And then you'll wish you had more inverter capacity.
The cost difference is so small that you might as well get the 3000W and have the flexibility.
Get a 3000W pure sine wave inverter from Vevor (~$200) or a similar budget brand ($300-400).
Skip the premium brands unless you're building a professional commercial van and need warranty support. The Vevor/Giandel/etc inverters work fine for DIY builds.
And definitely get 3000W instead of 2000W. The small price difference opens up way more possibilities in your van. You'll never regret having too much inverter capacity, but you'll definitely regret having too little when you want to cook something fast and your inverter can't keep up.
At ~$200 from Vevor, a 3000W inverter is barely more than a 2000W - but it gives you a lot more capability and flexibility. It's worth it.